El Paseo de Tacón, o Militar, como también se le conoció, fue uno de esos lugares citadinos que se transformó paulatinamente y no pasó por el panorama de nuestra urbe como algo insignificante y efímero. Su connotación trasciende hasta nuestros días.
Fue el controversial capitán general Miguel Tacón (1834-1838) el que pensó e impulsó la reforma del “camino” que, partiendo de las calzadas de San Luis de Gonzaga –Reina– y Belascoaín, conducía pésimamente hasta el Castillo del Príncipe. Para ese momento La Habana llegaba justo hasta tal límite,1 Belascoaín era el borde entre la ciudad y el campo. El propio Tacón refería sobre su proyecto:
“Carecía la capital de un paseo de campo donde pudiese respirarse el aire puro y libre, y me resolví á emprenderle desde el campo que llaman de Peñalver hasta la falda de la colina donde se halla el castillo del Príncipe. Era este sitio, en otro tiempo pantanoso y anegadizo, el más á propósito para una obra de esta especie en los alrededores de esta ciudad, en la parte en que no es circundada por el mar. Había también otro motivo que concurría á convertir la obra en doblemente útil, el cual era la franca comunicación de esta plaza con el castillo, interrumpida por aquella parte en la estación de las lluvias”.2
Más allá de una ruta con fines militares, matizada por sus diferentes alternativas comunicativas, cuestión que la caracterizará siempre, se convirtió en un sitio de recreo para los habaneros de la época, esto lo confirma Mercedes Santa Cruz y Montalvo, la Condesa de Merlín, quien expresó:
“A las seis todos los quitrines aguardan á la puerta de las casas; las mujeres con la cabeza descubierta y flores naturales en ellas, y los hombres de frac y corbata, chaleco y pantalón blanco, todos perfectamente vestidos, suben cada uno en su quitrín y van al paseo de Tacón, á aquellas bellas alamedas donde sea por ociosidad, sea por indolencia ó por orgullo, nadie pasea á pie. Por todas partes se deslizan las volantas, dignas verdaderamente de este nombre, y en las cuales se veía la voluptuosidad habanera recostada con negligencia, y gozando del soplo ligero de la brisa”.3
Considerada desde entonces espaciosa y segura vía para la ciudad que se expandía, al recorrido se le llamó primero Paseo de Tacón como reconocimiento a su soberbio promotor, que no era del agrado de muchos por su despótico accionar. Según se expresa en la importante obra Cuba monumental, estatuaria y epigráfica, el Paseo:
“…en una extensión de mil cuatrocientas veinticinco varas provinciales y una anchura constante de setenta, fue objeto de preferente atención, como lo demostró el hecho de dotarlo de calles divididas por cuatro hileras de álamos blancos, al pie de cuyos troncos, en las dos laterales, hasta la fuente de la columna o de Ceres, se colocaron bancos de piedra, que fueron dobles, solamente desde aquí, hasta la segunda de los Aldeanos o de las frutas, simplemente maleconcillos de tierra, cubiertos de hierba menuda llamada Bermuda, de la tercera Fuente de los Sátiros o de las flores, en adelante. La calle central, de más ancho espacio que las otras, fue para los carruajes. Hallábase embellecido este paseo, con cinco glorietas o rotondas, trazadas a distancias distintas, rodeadas de enverjados y asientos circulares, de sillería las dos primeras, y las demás de pinos de Nueva Holanda y banquetas de piedra”.5
El Paseo de Tacón tenía un carácter mayoritariamente vial, de ahí que su senda central fuera más amplia y diseñada para los carruajes. Su consolidación estimuló el desarrollo urbano a ambos lados del trayecto, de hecho, fue el catalizador para que se continuara con la calzada de Infanta, que en un primer momento se desarrolló solo desde la Esquina de Tejas hasta el Paseo.
Entre el capitán general Miguel Tacón y el intendente general Claudio Martínez de Pinillos, Conde de Villanueva, se generó una gran disputa, ambos intentaban demostrar su poder creando o impulsando obras en La Habana y denigrándose mutuamente. Tacón, con la contribución de muchos, construyó la nueva cárcel de La Habana, un mercado, la fuente del Neptuno y el paseo que abordamos. Villanueva, por su parte, erigió el ferrocarril y su estación, la fuente de La Noble Habana y las escuelas tecnológicas. Y si bien “esos hijos tuvieron muchos padres”, fueron estas dos figuras las que impulsaron y concretaron tales proyectos. La disputa llegó a tornarse compleja y hasta llegó a afirmase que fue el dinero de Villanueva el que terminó con el mandato de Tacón en la Isla, aunque él era un hombre de notables influencias y méritos en la Península.
Lugares del Paseo
El recorrido lo comenzaba una estatua de Carlos III confeccionada en mármol blanco de Carrara. Aunque había sido erigida en el Paseo de Isabel II en el año de 1803, más tarde fue trasladada al nuevo emplazamiento y colocada sobre un pedestal pétreo en el centro de la primera rotonda, en la misma esquina de Belascoaín, frente a la actual calzada de Reina. En muy poco tiempo el trazado tomó el nombre del soberano. Cerrando el círculo, a ambos lados de la vía central, fueron situadas dos columnas dóricas estriadas, coronadas por urnas de piedra.
A poca distancia, a espaldas de la estatua de Carlos III y dentro de una segunda rotonda, que según muestra el citado plano de 1866 estaba entre las calles Oquendo y Soledad, se erguía la primera fuente del paseo, la de Ceres6 o de la columna. La fuente fue modificada en la primera reforma del Paseo: se le quitó la columna y la estatua de la diosa se instaló directamente sobre el pedestal central.
Se afirma que la escultura de Carlos III, las columnas dóricas a la entrada del paseo y la fuente fueron instaladas en el año de 1835. La estatua de Ceres se mantuvo hasta hace muy poco tiempo sobre un pedestal en el trazado de la avenida actual, escondida entre los flamboyanes de uno de los laterales de la vía central, olvidada y maltratada hasta las últimas consecuencias. Fue retirada junto a su pedestal.
Continuando el recorrido, justo en el centro de la intercepción que formaron la Calzada de la Infanta María Luisa Fernanda –Infanta– y el propio Paseo de Tacón, se encontraba la tercera rotonda y en ella la fuente de los Aldeanos (1837) o de las frutas. Se le llamó así porque sobre las cuatro pilastras que rodeaban el pedestal central había unas copas llenas de frutas. También poseía la misma cantidad de estatuas alegóricas, primero fueron de yeso y después se sustituyeron por otras similares de mármol.
Una cuarta rotonda servía de alojamiento a la fuente de los Sátiros7 (1837) o de las flores, la cual poseía, en sus respectivas peanas, cuatro vasos etruscos8 donde siempre crecían floridas plantas. Su pedestal central, muy parecido al de la fuente de los Aldeanos, estuvo rematado primero por un copón, que es el mismo que se encuentra emplazado hoy en 5ta. Avenida y calle 42 en el municipio Playa, posteriormente se cambió por una estatua de fundición representativa de la diosa Pomona.9 Cuatro pilastras adosadas servían de sostén para que, en dos de ellas, descansaran las figuras de los Sátiros y sobre las otras había dos leones postrados, que coincidentemente también están en el emplazamiento de 5ta. Avenida, las figuras se alternaban en círculo sobre el pedestal. Parece haber sido la fuente mejor lograda del Paseo.
Esta rotonda se encontraba justo frente a la puerta de la Quinta de los Molinos, lugar que fue primero la casa de descanso de los capitanes generales, residencia del Generalísimo Máximo Gómez y luego el Jardín Botánico. Su pináculo central logró sobrevivir hasta entrado el siglo xx, no como una fuente, sino como conjunto escultórico tras una recomposición.
La fuente de Esculapio (1836) esperaba al transeúnte en la última rotonda, donde hoy se interceptan las avenidas Boyeros y Salvador Allende. Se asegura que era la de peor factura y de tosco mármol. La estatua del Dios romano de la medicina y la curación se erguía sobre un pedestal cuadrangular en el centro de una taza octogonal y poseía cuatro surtidores, uno en cada cara del pedestal.
Para cerrar el recorrido se situaron otras dos columnas dóricas, iguales a las que comenzaban el trayecto. Las opiniones siempre fueron divididas con relación a la calidad estética del trazado, pero es innegable que dotó a la zona en crecimiento de una vía de importancia, que posteriormente entraría a desempeñar un rol significativo en el entramado urbano habanero.
El Carlos III republicano
Llegado el año 1902, el nombre de Carlos III le fue cambiado, a partir de entonces se le llamó Avenida de la Independencia. Como suele suceder en estos casos, los habaneros le continuaron llamando de la antigua manera. El Paseo y sus ornamentos poco a poco se fueron extinguiendo y cedió su traza a una amplia avenida que conservó la misma estructura vial en una zona ya urbanizada. En el año 1936 se le restituyó el antiguo nombre y se le practicó una reforma. Fue una de las primeras calles capitalinas con pavimento asfaltado, para lo que el Ayuntamiento de la ciudad destinó un presupuesto considerable.
En el transcurso de su existencia colonial y hasta los primeros treinta años de la República, se posicionaron en el Paseo importantes inmuebles y entidades, entre ellas la fábrica de tabaco H. Upmann o La madama, la Quinta de Toca, el Hospital Freyre de Andrade, el edificio de la Sociedad Económica de Amigos del País y la Central Telefónica Automática de Príncipe, una de las primeras de Cuba y de América Latina.
Por Carlos III ha rodado todo tipo de vehículos, desde las rústicas carretas, los simpáticos fotingos y durante un largo tiempo los tranvías. Albergó uno de los paraderos de The Havana Electric Railway Light and Power Company, que se encontraba justo frente a la Quinta de los Molinos y al emplazamiento de la fuente de los Sátiros; de allí salió el último viaje de un tranvía por La Habana, el número 388 de la ruta P-2, el martes 29 de abril de 1952.10
Hubo lugares muy populares que distinguían la avenida, muchos de ellos mencionados con frecuencia por padres y abuelos, son los casos del Hospital de Emergencias, el cine Manzanares, el restaurante Las Avenidas y la esquinera funeraria San José, que tenía su frente hacia la calzada de Infanta, pero formaba parte de este entorno.
En la década del cincuenta, Carlos III recibió una reforma integral, que le propició la apariencia que, de alguna manera, conserva hasta hoy. El cambio contempló la edificación de inmuebles como el del Gran Templo Masónico, el que ocupó la Compañía Cubana de Electricidad y el conocido Mercado homónimo. También se remodeló la verja de la Quinta de los Molinos para alinear perfectamente la calle. Esta última transformación provocó algunos conflictos, pues para ella se requería cortar el árbol más antiguo del Jardín Botánico; el asunto encontró una solución y se consiguió el objetivo sin llegar a la riesgosa tala.
De Carlos III a Avenida Salvador Allende
Lejos estaba de imaginar el capitán general Miguel Tacón que el paseo que impulsó para La Habana en la Cuba colonial, se convertiría en una de las arterias viales fundamentales de nuestra ciudad en la República y, sin duda alguna, la principal del actual municipio Centro Habana. Hoy el área de la otrora primera rotonda se constituye como el nodo central del municipio y la traza del paseo es el corredor urbano que permite el enlace entre el centro de la capital y los municipios del oeste, sur y suroeste, todo gracias a la concepción vial estratégica del antiguo paseo.
Aún se conservan algunas edificaciones emblemáticas y en otros casos los espacios pasaron a cumplir diferentes funciones, pero la estructura vial mantiene prácticamente la misma morfología de siempre.
En la década del setenta del pasado siglo xx se le cambió nuevamente el nombre por el de Avenida Salvador Allende, pero sucedió lo mismo que en las otras ocasiones: todos la seguimos llamando como siempre. Lo que echa raíces en las entrañas de la sociedad, no hay decreto que lo cambie, es una cuestión de transferencia cultural. Para reforzar la confraternidad popular con el antiguo nombre, al ser remodelado el famoso mercado que existió desde la década de los cincuenta, se le nombró Plaza Carlos III.
Hoy, cuando La Habana celebra su aniversario quinientos, sería hermoso y loable volver a ver a Ceres restaurada en cualquiera de las fuentes que se extinguen en los parques de esta avenida capitalina, o a la emblemática estatua de Carlos III en el sitio donde se mantuvo por más de un siglo, de donde jamás debió haber sido retirada, sobre todo teniendo en cuenta que el monumento a Salvador Allende que un día se pensó para el lugar, fue puesto en otra céntrica calle habanera. De esa manera, el día de los fuegos artificiales y los cañonazos, sentiremos que la fiesta no es de La Habana de asfalto y de concreto, ni un performance conmemorativo, sino una celebración real de los capitalinos que la vivimos. Ω
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